BY ANDREW MORKES, FOUNDER & AUTHOR OF THE “NATURE IN CHICAGOLAND” BLOG
UPDATED AUGUST 2025
Looking for an adventure just 2.5 hours from Chicago? If so, check out Witkowsky State Wildlife Area, a 1,000-acre natural area that is located in far northwest Illinois in the Driftless Region. It’s just nine miles southeast of the historic river town of Galena, Illinois. If you think Illinois is completely flat, you’re mistaken. The Driftless Region (or the Driftless Area) features limestone bluffs, rolling hills, wooded valleys, waterfalls, creeks, wetlands, rivers, caves, Native American Effigy Mounds, and rare ecosystems and plant and animal species. Unlike much of the Midwest, this area was not flattened and otherwise reshaped by the glaciers during the Wisconsin Glaciation. The Driftless Region comprises about 24,000 square miles.
Why is it Called the Driftless Region?
When a glacier recedes, it leaves behind deposits such as gravel, silt, clay, sand, and boulders, which are called drift. The term “Driftless Region,” comes from the fact that the area contains no drift, hence “Driftless.”
Here are six things to do at Witkowsky State Wildlife Area:
Go Hiking
Witkowsky has 10 miles of trails that travel through forests, prairies, wetlands, and other ecosystems. There are five trails: Hickory Trail (1.1 miles), Earth Station Trail (1.2 miles), Oak Trail (1.6 miles), Cedar Trail (2.1 miles), and Walnut Trail (5.7 miles). Click here for a trail map and preserve brochure.
During my visit, I first took the Walnut Trail (starting at the trailhead that is located at the far northwest corner of the preserve). The path travels about one mile until you reach a stunning overlook, which features views of farmland, hills, and the Hanover Earth Station (more on that later). At or near the overlook, you can continue on the Walnut Trail or connect to other trails.
I hiked back out to my car and traveled to the Cedar Trail-head (which is located in the far southeast corner of the preserve). The trail first travels 0.3 miles north along S. Blackjack Road. A prescribed burn had just occurred before my visit, and I smelled smoke and felt a dull warmth emanating from the ground as I walked. Red-winged blackbirds flew over the field and surveyed the burn. The trail then travels west into dense, hilly forest that is occasionally bisected by meandering streams. I admired the beautiful rock formations that looked like forts in the rolling hills and marveled at the beauty of large gatherings of Dutchman’s breeches, bellworts, and Mayapples amidst the rock formations. The trail eventually circles back toward the road. If you head north at the road, you can connect to the Walnut Trail. Head south at the road to return to your vehicle or bike.
Explore the Hanover Earth Station
When I saw the Earth Station from high above on the Walnut Trail, I thought I was seeing a broken-down movie set from some 1970s futuristic movie. I almost expected men in white, nylon jumpsuits and perms (like Mike Brady during some of the Brady Bunch years) to emerge with space rifles. That didn’t happen, of course, but I learned that this was one of seven “earth stations” constructed in the 1970s by AT&T and GTE. “Within 98-foot diameter antenna, these earth stations transmitted data to/from satellites 22,000 miles above the equator as part of the first communications satellite system for regular long-distance telephone calls in the U.S.,” according to Driftless.caves.org. You can explore the two remaining concrete structures that had supported a 400-ton antenna and tracking system.
Go Birdwatching
A total of 100 bird species have been recorded at the preserve, according to Avibase: The World Bird Database. This website features photos and audio recordings of the birds. Some of the species that have been spotted include wild turkeys, ruby-throated hummingbirds, Eastern whip-poor-wills, sandhill cranes, golden eagles, great blue herons, killdeers, barred owls, bald eagles, belted kingfishers, pileated woodpeckers and other types of woodpeckers, dark-eyed juncos, Eastern meadowlarks, scarlet tanagers, and yellow-throated vireos.
Look for Illinois Species of Concern
Witkowsky provides critical habitat for dozens of Species of Concern that have been identified in the Illinois Wildlife Action Plan, according to Outdoor Illinois Journal. These include the state-endangered Iowa amphipod and the state-threatened timber rattlesnake, cerulean warbler, four-toed salamander, and two mussels, the black sandshell and the slippershell.
Savor the Seasons
I visited in April, and the ravines, prairies, and creek ecosystems were filled with spring ephemerals. It was fun to search for wildflowers and try to catch a glimpse of wild turkeys. Given the preserve’s extensive prairies, the summer natives must be amazing. And given the dense forest, you are almost guaranteed a vivid color show if you visit in the fall. Finally, I look forward to returning to Witkowsky in the winter to enjoy the solitude. The portion of the Walnut Trail that I hiked looks like an excellent place to snowshoe.
Consider Volunteering
Some opportunities include conducting citizen science surveys and joining the Friends of Witkowsky volunteer group. Contact info@jdcf.org for more information.
things to know Before You Go:
Open daily from dawn to dusk.
IMPORTANT: The trails are closed to hikers during firearms hunting seasons. Be sure to check the hunting season dates, which are posted at the kiosks near the parking areas and also on the Illinois Department of Natural Resources (IDNR) website. At the end of this article, I’ve provided some alternate destinations in case your visit inadvertently coincides with hunting hours.
Dogs allowed (but on leash only).
Fires, camping, and biking are not allowed.
The full name of the preserve is the Iris & Jack Witkowsky State Wildlife Area. More than three decades ago, the Witkowskys donated 400 acres of their 510-acre farm to the IDNR as a first step towards the creation of the Witkowsky State Wildlife Area.
The wildlife area is a partner preserve of the Jo Daviess Conservation Foundation (JDCF). It is owned by the IDNR and managed with the help of the Friends of Witkowsky volunteer group, an affiliate of JDCF.
More Places in the Area
Here are some other great destinations in the Galena area. Links to stories that I’ve written about these destinations are listed, when available.
Stop in on your way to Galena from Chicago
As its name suggests, you’ll find this hilly beautiful park (more like a nature reserve) just before you enter Galena
Mississippi Palisades State Park—Great Views, Muddy Shoes, and Eagles in Twos
A great day trip from Galena—about 29 miles southeast of the town along the Mississippi River
Casper Bluff Land & Water Reserve: The 85-acre reserve offers stunning views of the Mississippi River and its backwater sloughs, where you might see bald eagles, herons, and hawks, among other birds. Casper Bluff also features the Aiken Mound Group (named for the nearby community of Aiken), which is part of the larger Effigy Mound culture that existed in the region.
Horseshoe Mound: The 40-acre Horseshoe Mound property provides stunning views of Galena and the rolling wooded and flower-covered hills that surround it, as well as short hiking trails. Viewing scopes are available that will allow you to see three states—Illinois, Wisconsin, and Iowa.
Wapello Land & Water Reserve: This is a beautiful place—full of wildflowers, birdsong, and scenic views—that you should definitely visit. There are short hiking trails that wind their way around the protected site of a former Native American village.
And one that is more of a long day trip from Galena . . .
Take a road trip on your road trip! If you’re interested in Native American history and love a good hike and beautiful scenery, consider a road trip to the monument, which is about 1.5 hours northwest of Galena by car. There are 206 prehistoric mounds at Effigy Mounds, including 31 animal effigies.
Here’s a great book about the region: Author and Professor Discusses the Magical Driftless Area
Copyright (text): Andrew Morkes
Copyright (photos): Andrew Morkes, except bird photos and Dutchman’s breeches photo in the main article image, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, USFWS
Copyright (text/photos) Andrew Morkes
Looking for some other great nature destinations in Chicagoland? If so, check out my book, Nature in Chicagoland: More Than 120 Fantastic Nature Destinations That You Must Visit. It features amazing destinations in Illinois, Indiana, Michigan, and Wisconsin. Click on the title to learn more. The book has 306 pages and 210+ photos and is only $19.99.
____________________________________________________________________________________________________________
ABOUT ANDREW MORKES
I have been a writer and editor for more than 30 years. I’m the founder of College & Career Press (2002); the author and publisher of “The Morkes Report: College and Career Planning Trends” blog; and the author and publisher of Hot Health Care Careers: 30 Occupations With Fast Growth and Many New Job Openings; Nontraditional Careers for Women and Men: More Than 30 Great Jobs for Women and Men With Apprenticeships Through PhDs; They Teach That in College!?: A Resource Guide to More Than 100 Interesting College Majors, which was selected as one of the best books of the year by the library journal Voice of Youth Advocates; and other titles. They Teach That in College!? provides more information on environmental- and sustainability-related majors such as Ecotourism, Range Management, Renewable Energy, Sustainability and the Built Environment, Sustainability Studies, and Sustainable Agriculture/Organic Farming. I also served as a member of the parent advisory board at my son’s school for five years.
In addition to these publications, I’ve written more than 70 books about careers for other publishing and media companies including Infobase (such as the venerable Encyclopedia of Careers & Vocational Guidance, the Vault Career Guide to Accounting, and many volumes in the Careers in Focus, Discovering Careers, What Can I Do Now?!, and Career Skills Library series) and Mason Crest (including those in the Careers in the Building Trades and Cool Careers in Science series).
Here’s a list of the environmental-focused titles that I’ve written:
- Nature in Chicagoland: More Than 120 Fantastic Nature Destinations That You Must Visit
- Wind Turbine Technicians (Great Careers Without a Bachelor’s Degree series)
- Environmental Scientists (Cool Careers in Science series)
- Renewable Energy Careers (Cool Careers in Science series)
- Environment (Getting Started series)
- Solar Power Technicians (Careers in Infrastructure series)
Thanks for another good write up! I like that you mentioned volunteering. That is fun and rewarding at many of the spots you have featured. Happy Spring!
Thank you, Henrietta! I appreciate your kind words. It’s always nice to see a strong volunteer presence at some of the places I write about. Happy Spring!