BY ANDREW MORKES, FOUNDER AND AUTHOR OF NATURE IN CHICAGOLAND
I was looking for the 650-foot-long turtle, but what I was really seeking was state park solitude.
I’d visited two other Illinois state parks in LaSalle County earlier in the day. The first two were jammed with people enjoying the trails, deep sandstone canyons, and waterfalls. These parks were beautiful but, in the end, I was a little “peopled out.” I longed to be able to be out in nature alone, with great views and my own company. I received my wish when I visited Buffalo Rock State Park, which is located on massive bluffs that tower above the Illinois River. As I journeyed west on its Effigy Tumuli Trail on a sunny spring day in the low 60s, I was amazed at the peace I suddenly felt atop these bluffs. The only sounds I heard were the strong winds blowing through the tall prairie grass and trees, and the busy calls of cranes, geese, and other birds in their nesting areas along the river. And I encountered only four people during my entire hike.
What are Effigy Mounds and Tumuli?
Effigy mounds are raised masses of earth in the shape of animals, humans, or other symbols. They were built by the Late Woodland Native American culture from about 600 through 1150 A.D., and were used to bury the dead, for clan ceremonies, and, perhaps, for celestial observations or to mark tribal or group boundaries. Tumuli is another word for a group of mounds.
This park land was donated by the Ottawa Silica Company, and environmental reclamation efforts were made to restore the land after extensive coal mining. In the early 1980s, the land artist Michael Heizer was commissioned to create art that spotlighted both the natural world and the Native Americans who had lived in the area for thousands of years before being displaced by European settlers and protracted warfare with other tribes. Effigy Tumuli consists of five mounds that pay homage to both Native American burial mounds that are still found throughout the Midwest and indigenous animals of the area. The animals depicted include a:
- water strider (a type of insect…pictured below in the photo), whose artist depiction is 685 feet long;
- a frog, 340 feet long;
- a catfish, 770 feet long;
- a turtle, 650 feet long; and
- a snake, 2,070 feet long measured from head to tail (it curves)
The frog, turtle, and catfish tumuli are built atop the flat bluff, while the snake and water strider incorporate existing land masses. For example, the snake curves around the bluff, with its head dipping down 90 feet to the river. Click here for a park map.
The Effigy Tumuli Trail begins at the parking lot and heads west until you reach the snake mound. You’ll then return east the way you came until you reach a river observation area, where there is a fork in the trail. If you head left, you will return the way that you came on the effigy trail. If you head right, you will journey east and then north on the River View Trail back to the parking lot. There is also an option on the River View Trail to continue east to see more of the river. Dirt and grass sub paths branch off the main trails throughout the park. Be very careful because many of these trails lead to steep slopes or cliff edges.
It’s not always easy to see the shapes of the animals from ground level as you walk. I found this especially true walking west on the Effigy Tumuli Trail. But it was easier to see the tumuli on the River View Trail, which also offers great views of the Illinois River. Sub trails also allow you to climb the tumuli to gain a better understanding of their size and design. You can learn more about the tumuli and see aerial photos of them here.
One complaint: When I visited, the interpretive signs for each animal were missing. Their presence would greatly improve the visitor experience. Let’s hope that they’ve been replaced by the time that you visit Buffalo Rock.
Did You Know?
“The area of Buffalo Rock was the home of the Illinois Indians when Louis Jolliet, the French explorer, and the Jesuit missionary priest Father Jacques Marquette made their trip up the Illinois River in 1673,” according to the Illinois Department of Natural Resources. “Later, the Illinois tribe was virtually annihilated in protracted warfare with the aggressive Iroquois.”
There are also opportunities at Buffalo Rock State Park to enjoy a picnic, engage in recreational activities, and view bison. There’s a large picnic area with grills that’s shaded by mature oak, walnut, and hickory trees. There are also two shelters, and the bigger shelter has a large stone fireplace and may be reserved. The picnic area offers views of the Illinois River. Kids will enjoy the park’s playground and a baseball diamond. Finally, there are three American bison in an enclosure near the parking lot. You can also see bison about an hour east of Buffalo Rock State Park at Midewin National Tallgrass Prairie and in eight other places in the Midwest. Click here for my article about these destinations.
Other things you can do at the park include:
- Bicycling; Adventur-E-Bike Rental rents bikes at the park.
- Birdwatching
- Cross-Country Skiing
- Photography
- Snowshoeing
Additionally, the Illinois Department of Natural Resources says that “three primitive camping areas exist along the trail between Buffalo Rock and Utica for open camping. Each primitive campsite has a fire ring (no water or restroom facilities are available). Sites are accessible by walk-in or bike-in only; no vehicular access is allowed. One of the camping areas designed for youth camping has a shelter with a fireplace. Campsites cannot be reserved in advance at this site.”
Before You Go
- Buffalo Rock State Park is located at 1300 North 27th Road, Ottawa, IL 61350, about 86 miles southwest of downtown Chicago.
- The park is open sunrise to sunset, year-round.
- Dogs are allowed (on leashes).
- Nearby nature destinations include Illinois & Michigan Canal State Trail Buffalo Rock Access Area, Matthiessen State Park, Starved Rock State Park
Copyright (text, except quoted material) Andrew Morkes
Copyright (photos): Andrew Morkes
____________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for some great nature destinations in Chicagoland? If so, check out my book, Nature in Chicagoland: More Than 120 Fantastic Nature Destinations That You Must Visit. It features amazing destinations in Illinois, Indiana, Michigan, and Wisconsin. Click on the title to learn more. The book has 306 pages and 210+ photos and is only $18.99.
____________________________________________________________________________________________________________
ABOUT ANDREW MORKES
I have been a writer and editor for more than 25 years. I’m the founder of College & Career Press (2002); the editorial director of the CAM Report career newsletter and College Spotlight newsletter; the author and publisher of “The Morkes Report: College and Career Planning Trends” blog; and the author and publisher of Hot Health Care Careers: 30 Occupations With Fast Growth and Many New Job Openings; Nontraditional Careers for Women and Men: More Than 30 Great Jobs for Women and Men With Apprenticeships Through PhDs; They Teach That in College!?: A Resource Guide to More Than 100 Interesting College Majors, which was selected as one of the best books of the year by the library journal Voice of Youth Advocates; and other titles. They Teach That in College!? provides more information on environmental- and sustainability-related majors such as Ecotourism, Range Management, Renewable Energy, Sustainability and the Built Environment, Sustainability Studies, and Sustainable Agriculture/Organic Farming. I’m also a member of the parent advisory board at my son’s school.
In addition to these publications, I’ve written more than 40 books about careers for other publishing and media companies including Infobase (such as the venerable Encyclopedia of Careers & Vocational Guidance, the Vault Career Guide to Accounting, and many volumes in the Careers in Focus, Discovering Careers, What Can I Do Now?!, and Career Skills Library series) and Mason Crest (including those in the Careers in the Building Trades and Cool Careers in Science series).
My poetry has appeared in Cadence, Wisconsin Review, Poetry Motel, Strong Coffee, and Mid-America Review.
3 thoughts on “Buffalo Rock State Park: Awesome Views of the Illinois River, Earth Art, and Tranquility”