A Visit to Garden of the Gods Recreation Area Proves That Illinois is Not Just One Vast, Flat Cornfield

BY ANDREW MORKES, FOUNDER AND AUTHOR OF “NATURE IN CHICAGOLAND”

During one spring weekend, my wife, son, and I took a 715-mile round-trip (reinforcing the flatness of most of Illinois); my son and his classmates competed at a state-wide science fair; and we visited the Garden of the Gods at Shawnee State Forest in far-southern Illinois. What a weekend!

That definitely beat staying home and cutting the grass.

My 12-year-old competed at the Illinois Junior Academy of Science state-level fair (along with two of his classmates) in Carbondale. This is the same guy who I once carried on my back in a hiking backpack and who was a frequent companion on my outdoor explorations that I’ve recorded at this blog and in my book, Nature in Chicagoland: More Than 120 Fantastic Nature Destinations That You Must Visit. He’s now taller than me and is a wonderful young man (but I’m biased, of course). My son and his classmates won a trophy at the science fair, and it was an exciting moment for the kids and us parents. I’m so proud of my son!

But let’s move on to why you’re reading this article: Garden of the Gods Recreation Area at Shawnee National Forest.

I wish I could tell you that I spent days at Garden of the Gods, but that was not to be, given that we were visiting on a Sunday and my son needed to be back at school the next day 335 miles north in Chicago.

So, we enjoyed hiking the ¼ mile Observation Trail on a very windy, mostly sunny day in the high 50s. The trail is made of natural sandstone and contains short, steep grades and steps, but it’s not difficult, with people of all ages walking easily on the path. As you walk, you’ll pass interpretive signs that detail the geological history of the area. It’s estimated that the rock formations and cliffs are approximately 320 million years old and go down four miles into the earth. It should take you 45 minutes to an hour to complete the circle trail—longer if you savor the views at the observation points.

We parked the car and began hiking. After about 15 minutes, we reached the main observation area. In most areas, there is no fencing, so you’ll need to be very careful as you walk near the cliffs’ edges to enjoy the view. We enjoyed stunning (jaw-dropping, exquisite, sublime…pick your effusive descriptor) views of the unique sandstone rock formations. We saw the Devil’s Smokestack, Camel Rock, Table Rock, and other unique sandstone formations.

We savored the panoramic views of the lush Garden of the God Wilderness below the cliffs. It was wonderful to see the green tree canopy after coming from Chicago, where its foliage was perhaps a month behind the greenery at Garden of Gods.

I don’t have a grand narrative to share with you. We spent the weekend together as a family in Carbondale, with a touch of southern charm. We enjoyed each other’s company. We chatted happily with other visitors who were also wowed by the view. Our son and his classmates won a trophy at the science fair. We took a hike together and saw a beautiful place that I think is one of the top natural destinations in Illinois—along with the Galena and LaSalle areas. It was enough, and we won’t forget our trip anytime soon.

Final Thoughts

The only good thing about not getting to spend enough time at a beautiful nature destination is the excitement of planning a return trip. We will definitely return to Garden of the Gods and look forward to exploring this Illinois gem.  

Facts and Things to Know Before You Go

Garden of the Gods Wilderness is located in Saline, Pope, and Hardin Counties.

Click here for a brochure and a map.

Picnic Area and Observation Trail hours of operation: 6 a.m. to 10 p.m.

There are 16.9 miles of hiking and equestrian trails, which the U.S. Forest Service says “will take you by indications of past use by people including homestead, fruit trees, cemeteries, and abandoned roads.” The trails range from easy to difficult. Indian Point Trail is a 1.6-mile loop trail. The River-to-River Trail passes through the national forest.

Pets must be leashed.

Be aware as you hike due to venomous snakes, dangerous cliffs (in some areas), and the presence of poison ivy.  

The Pharoah Campground is open year-round. No reservations; first come, first served. There are 12 campsites, which feature tables, fire grills, toilets, drinking water, and access to trails. Additional camping can be accessed by traveling east on Karbers Ridge Road to Pounds Hollow Campground.

The U.S. Forest Service says that “cell phone coverage is spotty or non-existent. Expect longer response times by emergency personnel.”

Illinois’ Galena Region and LaSalle County

Check out my articles on great destinations in the Galena and LaSalle County areas of Illinois.

Galena Area

Galena Gateway Park: Amazing Views of a Historic Town, Great Hiking, and Excellent Wildflower and Bird Viewing

Valley of Eden Bird Sanctuary: Great Birding, Wide-Open Spaces, and Enjoyable Hiking and Cross-Country Skiing

Mississippi Palisades State Park—Great Views, Muddy Shoes, and Eagles in Twos

My book, Nature in Chicagoland: More Than 120 Fantastic Nature Destinations That You Must Visit, devotes an entire chapter to the Galena area.

LaSalle County

Matthiessen State Park: Awe-Inspiring Canyons, Colorful Cliffs, and a Biodiversity Hotspot

Buffalo Rock State Park: Awesome Views of the Illinois River, Earth Art, and Tranquility

Starved Rock State Park This park features waterfalls, nearly 20 canyons, hiking trails, towering ice formations in the winter, and so much more. Pets must be leashed.

Copyright Andrew Morkes (text)

Copyright Andrew Morkes (photos, except photo of red-bellied woodpecker by Michael Schramm, U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service)

Looking for some great nature destinations in Chicagoland? If so, check out my book, Nature in Chicagoland: More Than 120 Fantastic Nature Destinations That You Must Visit. It features amazing destinations in Illinois, Indiana, Michigan, and Wisconsin. Click on the title to learn more. The book has 306 pages and 210+ photos and is only $18.99. Nature in Chicagoland received great reviews in the Chicago Sun-TimesChicago TribuneDaily SouthtownThis Week in Birding blog, and Beverly Review.

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ABOUT ANDREW MORKES

I have been a writer and editor for nearly 30 years. I’m the founder of College & Career Press (2002); the author and publisher of “The Morkes Report: College and Career Planning Trends” blog; and the author and publisher of Hot Health Care Careers: 30 Occupations With Fast Growth and Many New Job OpeningsNontraditional Careers for Women and Men: More Than 30 Great Jobs for Women and Men With Apprenticeships Through PhDsThey Teach That in College!?: A Resource Guide to More Than 100 Interesting College Majors, which was selected as one of the best books of the year by the library journal Voice of Youth Advocates; and other titlesThey Teach That in College!? provides more information on environmental- and sustainability-related majors such as Ecotourism, Range Management, Renewable Energy, Sustainability and the Built Environment, Sustainability Studies, and Sustainable Agriculture/Organic Farming. I’m also a member of the parent advisory board at my son’s school. 

In addition to these publications, I’ve written more than 60 books about careers for other publishing and media companies including Infobase (such as the venerable Encyclopedia of Careers & Vocational Guidance, the Vault Career Guide to Accounting, and many volumes in the Careers in Focus, Discovering CareersWhat Can I Do Now?!, and Career Skills Library series) and Mason Crest (including those in the Careers in the Building Trades and Cool Careers in Science series).

Here’s a list of the environmental-focused titles that I’ve written:

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