BY ANDREW MORKES, FOUNDER AND AUTHOR OF “NATURE IN CHICAGOLAND” BLOG
Only a small percentage of Forest Preserves of Cook County land is located within the city limits of Chicago, and Dan Ryan Woods on the city’s South Side is one of these properties. For more than a century, it’s been a popular place for city dwellers to picnic, hike, sled, and otherwise enjoy nature. Before this time, a portion of Dan Ryan Woods was a livestock farm, and pigs and a herd of cattle grazed on its glacial ridges. In 1902, the Chicago Live Stock World newspaper described the farm as the “largest within the city limits of Chicago.” And long, long (i.e., 14,000 years ago) before cattle roamed the hills and people celebrated weddings and high school graduations in its picnic groves, the woods (which sit on some of the highest land in Chicago…not all of Chicago is flat!) were the tip of an island in ancient Lake Chicago. The highest ground in Dan Ryan Woods was surrounded by water, and nomadic groups of Paleo Indians hunted mastodons and other megafauna in the area. The highest areas of the Dan Ryan Woods comprise the northern-most tip of an interesting piece of Chicago topography known as the Blue Island Ridge. The glacial ridge runs nearly six miles from Dan Ryan Woods to the suburb of Blue Island.
But let’s return to the present. Although the grounds are old at Dan Ryan Woods, many new improvements have been made to this recreation stalwart. Recent additions include new exercise stairs near the sledding hill (that some say are as popular as those found at Swallow Cliff Woods) and a multi-faceted nature play area, where children can climb, make music, or look out over the landscape in a Treehouse. The exercise stairs, nature play area, and sledding and snowboarding hill are near the Visitor Center.
The best hiking areas are found south of 87th Street. Wood-chip trails wind through old bur, white, and red oak woodlands, where you can see spring ephemerals such as wild geranium, Jack-in-the-pulpit, red trillium, thicket parsley, and Virginia waterleaf. You’ll also pass historic limestone aqueducts, which were built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s to prevent water from washing away soil on the steep ridges. The elevation gradually decreases as you head east from Western Avenue, and you’ll eventually enter an area that was once covered by Lake Chicago. In the southeast corner of the woods, there are red oaks, swamp white oaks, and American basswood, as well as fringed loosestrife, pale-leaved sunflower, and sedges and manna grasses.
If you’re interested in biking, the Major Taylor Trail begins at the northeastern edge of Dan Ryan Woods, travels two miles to its southeastern boundary, and then continues another seven miles or so to Whistler Woods on the banks of the Little Calumet River in Riverdale, Illinois. The trail includes paved segments, off-street paved segments managed by the Chicago Park District, and on-street segments.
Things to Know Before You Go
Location: Dan Ryan Woods is located on the South Side of Chicago near the historic neighborhoods of Beverly Hills/Morgan Park. There are six entrances; the Visitor Center is located at Western Avenue & 87th Street, Chicago, 60620
Hours:
Grounds: Sunrise to Sunset, Year-round
Visitor Center: Open Memorial Day to Labor Day, Tuesday & Thursday: 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.; Saturday, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Quick Review: A 257-acre urban preserve withsledding and snowboarding hills, historic aqueducts, fitness stairs, picnic groves, and a mile-long paved loop that connects to the Major Taylor Trail (good for biking and walking). Dogs allowed (on leashes). The 91st Street Stop on the Metra Rock Island line takes visitors right to the southeast corner of the woods.
Getting There: By car, by bus, by bike, by foot if you live in thed area, and by Metra (The 91st Street Stop on the Metra Rock Island line takes visitors right to the southeast corner of the woods.)
What You Can Do There: Bicycling, Birdwatching, Cross-Country Skiing, Educational and Self-Enrichment Opportunities and Classes, Hiking, Indoor Event Rentals (for birthday parties, showers, classes, and meetings), Photography, Picnicking, Running/Exercise (including fitness stairs), Sledding, Snowboarding, Snowshoeing, Visitor Center
Nearby Nature Destinations: Big Marsh Park, Garden of the Phoenix (Jackson Park), Indian Ridge Marsh Park, Lake Katherine Nature Center and Botanic Gardens, Lake Michigan, Marquette Park, Whistler Woods Forest Preserve
Who was Dan Ryan Sr.? He was a former board member of Forest Preserves of Cook County. In 1924, what was then named Beverly Hills Preserve was re-named to Dan Ryan Woods in his honor.
Who was Major Taylor? Marshall “Major” Taylor was an African-American bicycle racer and civil rights advocate. When he was young, he became known for his ability to perform amazing bicycle tricks, during which he wore a soldier’s uniform (hence the nickname, “Major”). Taylor became a world champion racer. “From 1898 to 1904 he was indeed the fastest bicycle rider in the world,” according to MajorTaylorChicago.com. Visit this website to learn more about Taylor, his racing prowess, and the racism that he had to overcome to become a champion.
Enjoy an Afternoon or Evening in Beverly Hills/Morgan Park
After you’ve visited Dan Ryan Woods, head to the nearby Chicago neighborhood of Beverly Hills, which is just south of the woods. (Morgan Park is Beverly’s southern neighbor, but most people just lump the two neighborhoods together and call them Beverly, and I’ll do the same for the purposes of this article.) My family has lived in this hilly, historical, and tree-lined “village in the city,” as its nickname goes—since the 1960s, and I spent the first 30+ years of my life there. Beverly is famous for its annual St. Patrick’s Day Parade and the Beverly Art Walk, but there are many other things to do and see in one of Chicago’s oldest and scenic neighborhoods, including:
Visiting the Irish Castle (10244 S. Longwood Drive, 60643, https://chicagosonlycastle.org) and checking out other architectural gems in the neighborhood. The castle, which was completed in 1887, has been recognized by the Chicago Landmarks Commission as part of the Longwood Drive Historic District. It’s also part of the Ridge Historic District, which is listed in the National Register of Historic Places. The castle is also known as the Givins Castle. After viewing the castle, take some time to appreciate the diverse architectural styles of the homes in the neighborhood. Beverly has a riotous array of architectural styles (Italianate, Queen Anne, Carpenter Gothic, Prairie School, and Renaissance Revival) and homes designed by famous architects such as Frank Lloyd Wright, Walter Burley Griffin, George W. Maher, Daniel Burnham, and Howard Van Doren Shaw. You can check out some of these homes via local tours and the Chicago Architecture Center’s Open House Chicago program.
Having lunch or dinner and a cocktail (or mocktail). There are many great places in Beverly to relax at after your time at Dan Ryan Woods. One of my favorites is Horse Thief Hollow Brewing Company (10426 S. Western Avenue, Chicago, 60643, 773/779-2739), which offers tasty craft-beer and food. Art adorns the walls, you can enjoy live music on certain days, and there’s a wonderful vibe at this popular destination. Open Outcry Brewing Company (10934 S. Western Avenue, Chicago, 60643, 773/629-6055) is another must-visit spot for excellent beer, mouth-watering food, and a fantastic rooftop deck. Other top-notch establishments include Cork & Kerry (10614 S. Western Avenue, Chicago, 60643, 773/445-2675), Barney Callaghan’s Pub (10618 S. Western Avenue, Chicago, 60643, 773/233-6829), Calabria Imports (a combo deli and casual restaurant that’s located at 1905 W. 103rd Street, 60643, 773/396-5800), Beverly Bakery & Cafe (10528 S. Western Avenue, Chicago, 60643, 773/238-5580), Nicky’s of Beverly (10500 S. Western Avenue, 60643, 773/233-3072; sandwiches, beer, and several nice vegan options), Rosangela’s Pizza (2807 West 95th Street, Evergreen Park, 708/422-2041), and Wild Blossom Meadery and Winery (9030 S. Hermitage, Chicago, 60620, 773/840-4642; the meadery/winery is located near one of the 91st Street entrance to Dan Ryan Woods).
Checking out some of my other favorite neighborhood destinations including:
The Original Rainbow Cone: 9233 S Western Avenue, 60643, 773/238-9833
Ridge Historical Society: 10621 S. Seeley Avenue, 60643, 773/881-1675
Bookie’s New and Used Books: 10324 S. Western Avenue, 60643, 773/239-1110
Beverly Arts Center: 2407 W. 111th Street, 60655, 773/445-3838
Heritage Gallery: 1907 W. 103rd Street, 60643, 773/233-0084
Ohana Ice Cream: 1800 West 103rd Street, 60643, 773/253-8533
Two Mile Coffee Bar: 9907 S. Walden Parkway, Chicago, 60643, 773/629-6001
Popular places that I’ve not visited include Ain’t She Sweet Café (9920 S. Western, Chicago, 60643, 773/840-3309), O’Kelly’s Bakery (9135 S. Western Avenue, 60643, 773/941-6342; note: the bakery is very close to entrances to Dan Ryan Woods that are located on Western Avenue), and Cakewalk Chicago (info@cakewalkchicago.com). Try them out and let me know what you think.
Copyright (photos): Andrew Morkes; except photo of the aqueducts (copyright FPCC)
Copyright (text, except quoted material): Andrew Morkes
Looking for some other great nature destinations in Chicagoland? If so, check out my book, Nature in Chicagoland: More Than 120 Fantastic Nature Destinations That You Must Visit. It features amazing destinations in Illinois, Indiana, Michigan, and Wisconsin. Click on the title to learn more. The book has 306 pages and 210+ photos and is only $19.99.
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ABOUT ANDREW MORKES
I’ve been writing and editing for more than 30 years. I’m the founder of College & Career Press (2002); the author and publisher of “The Morkes Report: College and Career Planning Trends” blog; and the author and publisher of Hot Health Care Careers: 30 Occupations With Fast Growth and Many New Job Openings; Nontraditional Careers for Women and Men: More Than 30 Great Jobs for Women and Men With Apprenticeships Through PhDs; They Teach That in College!?: A Resource Guide to More Than 100 Interesting College Majors, which was selected as one of the best books of the year by the library journal Voice of Youth Advocates; and other titles. They Teach That in College!? provides more information on environmental- and sustainability-related majors such as Ecotourism, Range Management, Renewable Energy, Sustainability and the Built Environment, Sustainability Studies, and Sustainable Agriculture/Organic Farming. I also served as a member of the parent advisory board at my son’s school for five years.
In addition to these publications, I’ve written more than 70 books about careers for other publishing and media companies including Infobase (such as the venerable Encyclopedia of Careers & Vocational Guidance, the Vault Career Guide to Accounting, and many volumes in the Careers in Focus, Discovering Careers, What Can I Do Now?!, and Career Skills Library series) and Mason Crest (including those in the Careers in the Building Trades and Cool Careers in Science series).
Here’s a list of the environmental-focused titles that I’ve written:
- Nature in Chicagoland: More Than 120 Fantastic Nature Destinations That You Must Visit
- Wind Turbine Technicians (Great Careers Without a Bachelor’s Degree series)
- Environmental Scientists (Cool Careers in Science series)
- Renewable Energy Careers (Cool Careers in Science series)
- Environment (Getting Started series)
- Solar Power Technicians (Careers in Infrastructure series)